This edition is the Ramen issue. It is ~200 pages of well-written, knowledge-filled articles about the history and art of ramen making. I’ve known for a little while that ramen is the chicken soup of Japanese culture. However I’ve never taken the time to truly learn about all the numerous ways this beautiful dish can be served. I think the one I’d like to eat most is a model known as Tsubame-Sanjô Ramen. Unlike traditional western soups where copious care is put into clarifying a broth, this dish has as much lard dissolved into the broth as possible. It’s supposed to be thick, slurpable as gravy, and delicious. It’s served in colder areas in Japan, the fat helps keep heat in the food.

Aside from the discussion on ramen there are also several extra tidbits that only increase the gross value of this book. Firstly there is a discussion between David Chang, Wylie Dufresne, and Anthony Bourdain. Purportedly they are all drunk, or at least approaching drunk, and they are discussing the state of mediocrity in the restaurant in the United States, specifically New York City. There are a lot of great opinions to come out of that discussion, including some about the farm-to-table movement that I was a little surprised when I found myself thinking, “You’re so right…” I believe my favorite one-liner to come from this little discussion may be:

Ingredient-driven food. What the fuck does that mean?

Now may be a late time to point out that most of the people and chefs involved in the making of this book enjoy the use of the word fuck, so if you have a particular urge to avoid that word, then just skim over it while reading, but most definitely still get this.

My favorite article is one written by Todd Kliman entitled The Problem of Authenticity. It’s an investigation into what makes food authentic. I mean he goes into the deepest crevices that exist in the word authentic. I don’t want to discuss it much out of fear of ruining it for anyone who may actually go buy this based on my recommendation. Though I will say he boils the argument down to: what is more authentic? Tuscan Food in New York made with ingredients from Tuscany or Tuscan inspired food made with ingredients from the culture surrounding the restaurant’s borough.

Other things you shouldn’t miss out on: The Instant Ramen Taste Test (Maruchan doesn’t even show up for the final showdown.), Seven Spectacular Egg Recipes, Ramen Recipes (Did you think there were none?), Chang and Meehan’s (He’s part of the backbone of this whole production, but I gave him very little credit until now. He deserves more.) adventures in Tokyo, and the art. There are so many things that make this book beautiful. I found myself wanting to cut out every other page and so that I could frame it and hang it on my wall. I’ve considered getting a second copy just for that.

Buy it here: McSweeney’s or at the typical big box stores, or if you’re lucky a local book store.

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1. Getting a job.
2. Keeping head above water.
3. Starting designing Web sites as a real income source.
   • Learning Nebraska tax code for a sole proprietorship.
4. Tasty barbecue?

That’s the list by the way. A little misplaced it may be, still it stands to show that I have a lot to work through.

PS: When I say Barbecue I do not mean hamburgers and hot dogs. Those do not count. I mean briskets, ribs, sausages (related to the hot dog yes, but it makes the list) and of course whole pigs who later become that delicacy known as pulled pork.

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